I discovered some unexpected delights on a recent trip (August, 2008) to Virginia to visit friends, Jon, J
ordan and Jen. Wineries and farms in Virginia possess a drive for quality and care, with results that deliver. I was fortunate to be staying on such a property, Tarara Winery in Leesburg. Tarara is a small winery on an attractive farm. To get to the winery you need to travel down a weaving gravel road past vines, orchard trees, berries, vegetable gardens and ponds. The winery is built into a hillside providing natural cooling for the cellar and a great view from the patio. Winemaker, Jordan Harris is entering his second vintage at Tarara and is excited about the future potential of this property.
Although California has the limelight for the American wine scene, fifty other states have wineries and most of these states are growing grapes. Viticulture in Virginia dates back to 1607. The most notable historical figure in Virginia was Thomas Jefferson, the third pre
sident, who had an undeniable love for wine. Jefferson’s love of Madeira and Clarets prompted him to establish vineyards at Monticello ("little mountain"), in Albemarle County. Jefferson tried to make wine with native and European grapes, but was not too successful, as disease took the vines. Jefferson loved to collect wines. His cellar was extensively filled with rums, ciders, Burgundies, Bordeauxs and wines from all over Europe. A 1784 bottle of Chateau Lafite with the letters "Th. J" etched onto the bottle has the prestige of being the most expensive bottle sold anywhere. No doubt, there is a winery paying homage to Jefferson. I visited Jefferson Vineyards, just down the road from Monticello. The winery made a variety of wine styles, but the most appealing catch for me was the replicated famous scripture on the bottles produced today. That’s the closest I’ll ever get to the real thing!
Wine, being among the earliest luxuries in which we indulge ourselves, it is desirable that it should be made here and we have every soil, aspect and climate of the best wine countries.
– Thomas Jefferson
Today Virginia has 135 wineries and six distinguished AVAs (American Viticultural Areas). Long, warm and humid weather allows the grapes to ripen to greatness. Soils types vary, but red clay soils are common. Virginia has claimed Viogner as it’s flagship grape. This grape certainly does well. I tasted plenty and they were all delicious and balanced. Not overly perfumed, but tropical and floral, not viscous but fresh with acidity, I collected a number of bottles to bring home. For red varietals, Tannat and Petit Verdot are made into inky, savoury wines. Hybrids make up approximately twenty percent of the
vineyards. They are grown in a manner I am not used to in Ontario. Rather than cropping at the highest level possible they are kept at the same levels as vinifera vines ( 4-6 tonnes/acre). I was blown away with a Seyval Blanc and Vidal Blanc Riesling blend I had at Linden Estates. The Seyval was steely and loaded with minerality. The Vidal purely tropical and clean. I had to tell myself it was ok to like them. The stigma hybrids varietals have in the wine world is less than desirable next to the classic vinifera vines of Europe. Winemaker and owner, Jim Law’s ability to work magic with hybrids and vinifera from small lot vineyards demonstrates his passion for handcrafted wines.
Another winery receiving a prestigious reputation is Kluge Estate. Everything about the estate is pristine and manicured. They benefit from the consulting advice of the famous flying winemaker, Michael Rolland. Kluge Estate produces a range of sparkling wines, reds and a fortified wine. Under the second label, Albemarle, they produce a range of table wines. The stand out wine was the fortified aperitif wine called Cru. Chardonnay is fortified with Virginia brandy and then aged for six months in Jack Daniel barrels to produce this aperitif wine. It is sweet, but far from cloying. Spice and citrus rind make up the predominant flavours. With all the development towards fine wines, Norton (a native American grape) is still grown throughout the state. I tried a range of styles of Norton at Chrysalis Vineyards, from carbonic maceration to barrel aged reserves. I failed to see the appeal of the grape – it was grapey and simple.
While exploring Virginia I was very excited to visit a farm that I have read about in two books: Michael Pollan’s
The Omnivore’s Dilemma; A Natural History of Four Meals and Michael Abelman’s
Fields of 
Plenty; A Farmer’s Journey in Search of Real Food and the People Who Grow It. Both authors visited Joel Salatin’s Polyface Farm in the Shenandoah Valley. Joel considers himself a grass farmer because of the way he rotates his livestock through his pastures. On the farm he raises laying hens, broilers, turkeys, rabbits, hogs and cattle. With a carefully calculated program for moving the animals around the property (usually twice a day), he distributes the nitrogen from the manures to encourage healthy regrowth and, therefore, healthy grass for the livestock to feed on. The animals get fresh air, fresh grass, exercise and respect at Polyface. It was well worth the long drive down some narrow back roads to reach this farm. When Jon and I arrived at the farm we were welcomed and given a breakdown of the property by one of the ranchers. He pointed us in the direction of the animals and let us know we were free to walk around the property. After a self guided tour I was excited to fill up the cooler! In the small and modest shop we picked up whole broilers, eggs and steak. We could see the open broiler butchering area from the cash out area (consisting of a calculator and hand written receipts). Nothing is hidden. Any questions are answered. The broilers are executed in a quick and humane manner. Unfortunately, we were not there on a butchering day, so we missed out on the action. I was happy to meet Joel himself. He chatted with us and gra
ciously signed my copy of his book,
Holy Cows and Hog Heaven; The Food Buyer’s Guide to Farm Friendly Food. We spoiled ourselves the next morning with steak and eggs for breakfast. The intensity of the flavour of the meat and eggs was overwhelming, I almost could not eat them! A taste experience such as this makes you aware of the flavours you miss out on when purchasing products in supermarkets that are shipped from far away CAFOs (Concentrated Animal Feeding Operations). To taste Joel’s products which are considered "beyond organic", you have to go to Virginia. Joel distributes his meats no further than 50 miles from the farm.
After a week in Virginia I am convinced it is worth the drive. The scenery is breathtaking, the weather is warm and the gourmet scene is blooming. Next time I’ll have to make it to DC...
http://www.tarara.com/http://www.virginiawine.org/http://www.polyfacefarms.com/
The Toronto Wine Tasting Challenge has quickly become the largest wine competition in North America. It is an exciting event for wine professionals, students and enthusiasts. I always enter for fun! It is a great excuse for a trip into the city and a day off work. The last competition was held at The Four Seasons Hotel Toronto in November, 2007. The competition is limited to 250 participants. The wines and spirits were served to us on a silver tray. In under an hour I was challenged to determine the grape variety or source, country and region of origin and vintage of ten wines and three spirits. To me, the challenge is a fun game of detective work to pick up on sensory clues to match with the wine information I have learned over the years. I never enter to win, but to add to my tasting education. I felt really confident and happy about my answers in the competition. A reception was held after the challenge. It is a chance to catch up with friends and rub shoulders with the professionals, as well as enjoying the lunch buffet and wine bar!
d at Via Allegro Restorante in Toronto on January 25th, Robbie Burns Day. We were greeted with a glass of 18 year old Talisker. All the winners sat together at the front table. CBC was filming the lunch. I felt like a superstar! Duo wine pairings were poured with each of the six courses! Between the courses, speeches and awards were presented. When it was my turn, I received five sets of Spiegeleau stem ware, $200 towards my wine education, an evening with food and wine critic James Chatto and the distillery trip to Scotland.
